A classic among Orkney’s coastal walks.
This route takes in the dramatic Atlantic-facing cliffs of Westray, with its sea-carved rock formations and seabird colonies.
You’ll also visit the island’s highest point of Fitty Hill – giving views as far as Shetland. It can be combined with our Noup Head Circular for a full day’s walk.
Distance
8.5km
Grade
Grading: 3
Duration
3.5hrs
Terrain
Mainly coastal heath and rough agricultural margins. Narrow cliff edge walking on tussocky grass for a short section towards the northern end of the route.
Map description
OS Explorer 464; OS Landranger 5
GPX fileStarting at the end of the public road at East Kirbest, walk 150m west along the vehicle track until you reach a cluster of buildings (West Kirbest). Just after passing the derelict farmhouse, as the track turns sharply right around the buildings, instead carry on straight ahead onto a rough grassy track. Turn right after just a few metres to follow the fenceline, passing in front of a renovated cottage before reaching a wooden gate.
Pass through the gate and follow a grassy path between fields (often a little overgrown) for 100m before climbing over a wooden stile. Carry straight on along the top of a very low escarpment to reach another wooden stile. From here the terrain changes to classic coastal heath.
Follow the faint track leading around the headland. Views begin to open up along the coast to Noup Head in the distance.
The cliffs along this route are home to great colonies of seabirds. In late spring and early to mid-summer you’ll pass gatherings of puffins, while the plaintive cry of the kittiwake mingles with the sound of the surf and cantankerous guillemots.
Around 2km into the walk, cross over a dry-stone dyke and look for a small wooden stile on the fence to your right (at time of writing the stile was in poor condition but the fence was even poorer, so could be easily stepped over).
Head diagonally towards the high terraced flanks of Fitty Hill. There's no fixed route at this point. Going straight towards the highest ground will be the most efficient way up, but erring a little to the right means you get to take in the small rocky outcrops (known locally as 'hammars') on the south side of the hill.
The summit is marked by a trig point and gives great views across the north isles. On a clear day Fair Isle and even Foula in Shetland can be seen.
Follow the fenceline west directly towards the coast. Ignore the wooden stile near the summit and keep to the south side of the fence. (There is an official route on the north side of the fence but there are sometimes cattle kept in that field, so better to keep on the side you're already on). Cross the small wooden stile (again you may be safer stepping over the sagging fence) and turn right to continue north along the coast.
The route passes close to the clifftops at Red Nev, where puffins dance on the updrafts of air in early to mid-summer. Great cushions of pink thrift line the clifftops here.
The next section of coastline is one of the most spectacular in Orkney. While not particularly high the cliffs have been carved into a myriad of caves, stacks and improbable arches - be sure to look back along the coast occasionally, as some are best seen from their north side.
The coastal heath becomes more grassy agriculture margins as you pass around the two enormous inlets of Bis Geos. Take care here as the path is close to the very crumbly edge in places, while rabbit holes hidden in the grass add an additional danger.
Around 150m after the geos, just as you arrive at a large wooden stile, look for a smaller stile to your right, leading onto a grassy track between fields. This will take you the final 200m to the small car park at Backarass and the end of the walk.
Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
Further information
- Places of interest
Westray is a vibrant island with a forward-thinking community. There are a number of fine walks to enjoy, including our Pierowall Circular and Noup Head Circular routes.
If you’re visiting the island in late spring or early summer make sure and pay an evening visit to the Castle of Burrian for Orkney’s finest puffin-viewing experience.
The Westray Heritage Centre is an excellent way to find out more about the island's history. Noltland Castle is well worth a visit too. Two galleries – the Westray Art Gallery and the Wheeling Steen Gallery – also offer the chance to meet local artists and see some of their work.
There's a nine-hole golf course in Westray that is open to visitors.
- Food & drink
There are three well-stocked local shops offering a wide selection of food and drink, W. I. Rendall's and J. C. Tulloch's in Pierowall, and Peter Miller's Skello Shop on the east coast of the island. W. I. Rendall's also has the Groatiebuckies Café, while the Wheeling Steen Gallery, a short drive north of the village, does teas, coffees and snacks.
JACKS Chippy at the southern end of Pierowall does excellent takeaways, as well as supplying the freshest of fish for those who’re self-catering. The Pierowall Hotel also offers meals and refreshments. Saintear is a bistro just outside the village offering meals and light bites, as well as regular specials. Richan's Retreat, close to Rapness Pier, also offers teas and coffees. The best advice is to check all opening times before you travel to Westray.
Westray produces some of Orkney’s finest local food. Fish, shellfish, bakery products and preserves are exported to the Orkney mainland and further afield from here. You'll find products from Pierowall Fish and the Westray Bakehouse in local shops.
- Transport & services
Daily ferries keep the island connected with Kirkwall. View timetables on the Orkney Ferries website. Loganair operates inter-island flights from Kirkwall Airport daily too. The route can sometimes stop off in Papa Westray, giving you the chance to experience the world's shortest scheduled flight. Visit the Loganair website for more information.
There is a local bus service which meets every ferry arrival and operates on request throughout the island, and Rendall's Shop offers a taxi service. If you're cycling, check out our Westray Castle & Sand and Westray Explorer routes. Petrol is available in the village too.
Public toilets are available at Rapness Ferry Terminal, in Pierowall village and at Gill Pier.