Stromness & Warebeth

Diagonally across from the museum is the former home of Orkney’s most famous poet, the late George Mackay Brown – a man who was passionate about this town and the narrow street along which we’re walking.

Carrying on south, you pass Login’s Well. This is where John Franklin’s ships took on water before heading to their fate in the Arctic ice, and as the street opens towards Ness Road a small cannon overlooks the approaches into the harbour. Captured from an American privateer, the cannon was fired to mark the arrival of ships of the Hudson’s Bay fleet.

From here carry on south, passing the council-run campsite, to the Point of Ness. During the late 19th century this was an important site in the town’s role as a major base for the herring fishery. Upwards of 400 boats would land their catches in Stromness at first light, having netted the ‘silver darlings’ in the dark seas to the west of Orkney through the night. Fishing - mainly for crab and lobster - remains an important industry for the town, but more recently the buildings here have been used as part of the development of marine renewable energy. It’s an emerging sector which is now an increasingly vital part of the local economy.

From the Point of Ness take the path which closely follows the coast southwest then west. Across the waters of Hoy Sound lies the island of Graemsay, and behind that the dark hills of Hoy itself. Pods of orca are often spotted passing through these waters.

Around 700m from the Point of Ness on your right you’ll notice a high chain-link fence, behind which lies a compound of old wartime buildings. This is the Ness Battery, an important part of the WW2 defences of Scapa Flow, which was the main base for the British Fleet in both world wars. Tours of this fascinating site can be arranged by appointment.

Carry on further west, taking care at points where coastal erosion is threatening the path, and in a little less than a kilometre you’ll come to the old cemetery at Warebeth. Remains of a Norwegian fishing boat, grounded here in the 1960s, can still be seen above the high tide mark. Hoy Sound has seen countless shipwrecks, and acts of heroic rescue, over the centuries. From here, the impressively sinuous headland of the Kame of Hoy is well seen. A passing fishing boat or the Scrabster ferry always gives these cliffs a truer sense of scale. Watch for gannets feeding beyond the outlying skerry of the Kirk Rocks.

A short distance onwards is the beach of Warebeth itself. The name comes from the Scottish (and Orcadian) word for seaweed – ware or wair. It’s well-named, as in winter this beach is often heaped high with mounds of kelp, a magnet for flocks of seabirds.

Follow the path around the head of the beach, passing the bench and small parking place. Take the obvious vehicle track that cuts inland to the right, passing between a former farmhouse and its outbuildings. After about 800m you’ll arrive at a T-junction. Turn right to follow the single-track road back towards Stromness, with fine views south towards Hoy and Graemsay.

After 1.5km turn right at the mini roundabout, before taking the first road on the left, which descends, quite steeply, back towards the town’s main street. As you walk down-hill you’ll pass two tall white posts with lights on top. These are the harbours ‘leading lights’. Vessels approaching Stromness ensure the two lights are in line for safe passage between the Point of Ness and the sheltering holms.

At the foot of Hellihole Road turn left to return along the street to the start of the walk.

Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.