This short walk is a perfect ‘bolt-on’ to our Shapinsay cycling route.
It takes in a wonderful stretch of coastline, dotted with sea-caves, arches, and stacks.
It’s best experienced in early summer, when great cushions of thrift erupt along the clifftops.
To reach the start of the walk, follow the main road (B9059) from the ferry through the village, carrying on for a further 4km before turning left onto a singletrack road signposted ‘Frustigarth’. After 2km this road takes a sharp left. Leave the bikes here and turn right onto a track with the farm sign Greenatang (The local farmer does allow vehicle parking at the farmyard but asks that this is done without blocking access to buildings, gates, or tracks. If possible, please leave a mobile number on your dashboard.)
After 400m follow the track as it turns right to pass through a metal gate and across a field, before passing through a double set of metal gates and onto a track heading left towards the coast. As you reach the coast, you’ll arrive at an old quarry at Dog Geo.
Walk carefully down the sloping rock and turn to your right to view the remarkable stone sea stack (unnamed on OS maps). The natural stone obelisk appears to teeter on its base and looks for all the world like one of the great heads of Easter Island.
From here follow the track on the left, which passes through the quarry and shadows the clifftops as it heads south for around 400m before reaching a second disused quarry. Keep a little to the right, to stay on the upper ‘floor’ of this quarry. Straight ahead you’ll see a very short, steep and narrow track that leads over a stable section of spoil heap. Cross over this and follow the coastline to reach the distinctive headland of Holm of Berstane.
The coast south of here is pockmarked with caves and natural arches carved by the sea. One of the caves here is rumoured to run deep under the island for miles, accounting for a deep rumbling vibration often heard by various islanders a great distance from the coast.
Follow the coast for around 500m to reach a fence line. Turn right here to follow the fence for 200m to reach Castle Bloody. Its name may be more dramatic than its appearance but this site, believed to be a collapsed Neolithic chambered cairn, gives a fine view point from which to admire Shapinsay’s east coast (except on foggy days, such as when we chose to visit!)
Continue following the line of the fence northwest for around 50m to pick up the obvious vehicle track running north across the heathland. After 1km this rejoins the outbound route at Dog Geo. From here simply retrace your earlier steps to return to the start of the walk.
Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
Further information
- Places of interest
Shapinsay has a number of other attractions if you're planning to stay longer than the duration of your walk. The Iron Age Burroughston Broch is tucked away close to the shore in the north east corner of the island, and you can also visit the Mor Stein standing stone. The Shapinsay Heritage Centre in Balfour village is an excellent introduction to the island.
The island has some wonderful wildlife-spotting opportunities too. Seals often bask on the shoreline close to the village shop and there are plenty of seabirds to see, including guillemots, shags and razorbills. Shapinsay is also rich in flora and fauna, and there are a couple of beautiful, and quiet, beaches to enjoy too.
- Food & drink
The newly reopened Smithy Café & Restaurant in Balfour village offers brunch, lunch and refreshments. The excellent island shop, Thomas Sinclair, is also found in the village and offers a wide range of food and drink options.
- Transport & services
Daily ferries connect Shapinsay and Kirkwall. View timetables on the Orkney Ferries website.
Public toilets are available at the Shapinsay pier.
Bike hire is available from the Shapinsay Development Trust - book ahead if you're planning to cycle during your visit. Our Shapinsay Circular cycle route is an excellent introduction to the island.
Petrol and diesel are available from the island shop.




