Pierowall Circular

Leaving the centre, turn left to head north through the village. Pierowall is believed to be the Höfn, or haven, of the Norse Sagas. Its sandy bay is supremely sheltered and would have been ideal for drawing up a fleet of shallow-drafted longships.

Turn left just before the school, onto the road signposted ‘Noltland Castle’. After rising up a shallow brae the road bends right then left before arriving at the castle (1.2km). Built during the 1560s, it was the island stronghold of Gilbert Balfour, a somewhat colourful mercenary, he was implicated in various plots and is thought to have had a hand in the murder of Mary Queen of Scots’ second husband, Lord Darnley. The castle features an impressive spiral staircase, a huge barrel-vaulted hall and no less than 71 gun-loops.

Carry on west from the castle for around 500m before turning right onto a sandy farm track heading towards the coast to arrive at Grobust beach (2.4km). This is one of Orkney’s finest beaches, with turquoise waters and rocky outcrops making it a picturesque spot.

Wander up onto the sand dunes behind the beach. This is the Links of Noltland, where the Westray Wife was discovered. A significant agricultural settlement existed here from around 3000BC right through till around 800BC. There’s not much to see outwith any excavation work, but you get a real sense of how this settlement is under severe threat from a collapsing network of sand dunes and rising sea levels.

Follow the bay to its eastern side before heading up to walk along pleasant, intertwining tracks over the sandy links. Networks of low stone walls, or steeths, can be seen all along the coastline here. These were used for drying tangles, or kelp stalks, which were harvested from the shore after winter storms and sent south to be used in the alginate industry up until the early 1990s.

Looking back to the west you should now see Noup Head and its lighthouse, while to the north lies Bow Head. These shorelines have been the site of countless shipwrecks over the centuries. A straggling ship of the defeated Spanish Armada went down, possibly off North Ronaldsay, in 1588. Two of the ship’s lifeboats were launched. One was lost in strong tides, but the other succeeded in putting ashore in Westray. The men settled in the island and for generations were known simply as ‘The Dons’. A glimpse of this Spanish ancestry can still be seen in the features of many islanders.

Around 900m east of Grobust beach, join the Rackwick Road (4.2km), heading right to travel south, back towards the village. Turn right at the junction and on your left-hand side is Sand o'Gill, a shallow inlet of beautiful sand. During the summer months you’ll see a small flotilla of Westray skiffs moored in the bay. As you return to the village watch for the Lady Kirk on your left hand side. This 13^th century church was altered in the 17^th century.

Arriving back at the start of your walk you’ll probably have built up an appetite. Thankfully, in an island so deeply connected with its surrounding seas, the Pierowall Hotel does a very fine fish supper.

Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.