A walk around one of Orkney’s most distinctive headlands, with its high-perched lighthouse and seabird colonies.
Of all Orkney’s lighthouses, Westray’s Noup Head enjoys arguably the most dramatic location.
From its high clifftops you can watch the great waves of the Atlantic Ocean roll in to break on the great skerries below.
Distance
7.4km
Grade
Grading: 3
Duration
2.3hrs
Terrain
Mainly coastal heath and rough grazing, with some narrow cliff edge paths. Return leg via gravel vehicle track and quiet public road.
Map description
OS Explorer 464; OS Landranger 5
GPX fileTake the public road towards Noup Head to start the walk at the small car park just before the farm of Backarass.
Heading directly downhill from the road, watch for a small wooden kissing gate and an information board which marks the start of the walk.
Follow the narrow track between fields until it reaches the coast. To your left, the west side of the island creates an attractive vista of receding headlands (this entire coast can be combined with today’s route to create a fine full day’s walk).
Turn right at the coast to head over a wooden stile to follow the cliff line in a northwest direction, passing a couple of wildflower-lined geos - or small coves – each with its own stone arch. Do take care at a narrow section of path where it passes close to the head of the one geo.
Continue to follow the coast, taking an obvious slight diversion to cross a stile into a field before emerging onto more open coastal grazing. A little further northwest of here the large open geo of Monivey opens up, the cliffs on its northern side marking the start of a moderately steep ascent to follow the coast as it rises around the flanks of the North Hill.
As the ground starts to level off, you’ll see the lighthouse in the distance. As you pass the highest point in the route (around 65m) a subtle curve in the sea cliffs creates Soth Hellian, Westray’s great seabird colony.
Although hugely affected by the decline in the numbers of various seabird species, it’s still a spectacular sight, best viewed from the slight headland to its south.
At this point you’ll have just passed the Gentlemen’s Cave. It was here that members of the Balfour and Stewart households, prominent local Jacobites, were forced to hide following the failed uprising of 1745, protected by the notorious ‘bad step’, which involves traversing a gap in the ledge in order to reach the sanctuary of the cave itself. (Searching for the exact location of the cave is to be strongly discouraged on the grounds of safety!)
Carrying on along the coast towards the lighthouse, lookout for the deep gouge of Ramni Geo, which cuts abruptly into the cliffs, forcing your route a little inland to round its head. Shortly after you’ll pass the headland of Kelda Ber, with its rock arch.
While many of the seabird species which nest along this coast have seen significant declines, there is a large gannetry which has been established on the cliffs just north of here in recent years and appears to be thriving, despite being hit by outbreaks of avian flu.
Carry on north to reach Noup Head Lighthouse, one of many around Scotland to be designed by the famous Stevenson family. From here turn right to follow the obvious vehicle track southeast, with fine views along the north coast of Westray. After around 2km the road drops to pass Noup Farm, from where a single-track tarmac road carries you the final 1km back to the start of the walk.
Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
Further information
- Places of interest
Westray is a vibrant island with a forward-thinking community. There are a number of fine coastal walks to enjoy, with Pierowall Circular and the linear route along the island’s west coast being two of the finest.
If you’re visiting the island in late spring or early summer make sure and pay an evening visit to the Castle of Burrian for Orkney’s finest puffin-viewing experience.
The Westray Heritage Centre is an excellent way to find out more about the island's history. Hume Sweet Hume is a local knitwear and design business based in Pierowall, with a shop in Kirkwall too. Two galleries – the Westray Art Gallery and the Wheeling Steen Gallery – also offer the chance to visit local artists and see some of their work.
There's a nine-hole golf course in Westray that is open to visitors.
- Food & drink
There are three well-stocked local shops offering a wide selection of food and drink, W. I. Rendall's and J. C. Tulloch's in Pierowall, and Peter Miller Merchants on the east coast of the island. W. I. Rendall's also has the Groatiebuckies Café, while the Wheeling Steen Gallery, a short drive north of the village, does teas, coffees and snacks.
JACKS Chippy at the southern end of Pierowall does excellent takeaways, as well as supplying the freshest of fish for those who’re self-catering. The Pierowall Hotel also offers meals and refreshments. Saintear is a bistro just outside the village offering meals and light bites, as well as regular specials. Richan's Retreat, close to Rapness Pier, also offers teas and coffees. The best advice is to check all opening times before you travel to Westray.
Westray produces some of Orkney’s finest local food. Fish, shellfish, bakery products and preserves are exported to the Orkney mainland and further afield from here. You'll find products from Pierowall Fish and the Westray Bakehouse in local shops.
- Transport & services
Daily ferries keep the island connected with Kirkwall. View timetables on the Orkney Ferries website. Loganair operates inter-island flights from Kirkwall Airport daily too. The route can sometimes stop off in Papa Westray, giving you the chance to experience the world's shortest scheduled flight. Visit the Loganair website for more information.
There is a local bus service which meets every ferry arrival and operates on request throughout the island, and Rendall's Shop offers bike hire, as well as taxi and car hire services. Petrol is available in the village too.
Public toilets are available at Rapness Ferry Terminal, in Pierowall village and at Gill Pier.