North Ronaldsay South Circular

Around 1km south of Hooking the bay ends and you pass the derelict crofts of Stennabreck and Brae. Much of the sheep dyke along this section of coast has been rebuilt in recent years. Originally constructed in the early 19^th century, the dyke keeps the island’s unique breed of sheep on the shoreline and away from the more productive interior, which was prioritised for crops and cattle. The sheep gradually evolved to survive primarily on eating seaweed. By the start of the 21^st century there weren’t enough islanders fit and able to maintain the Grade A-listed structure, which girdles the island for over 12 miles. The problems were exacerbated by increased storm activity and coastal erosion (the dyke around the head of the bay we’ve just passed has been entirely washed away).

In 2016 an annual North Ronaldsay Sheep Festival was established. It sees volunteers from around the world coming to help islanders restore this unique drystone wall. The sheep themselves provide a vital resource for the island, through both their wool and meat.

A little further along the coast you’ll pass the Bride’s Pund. It’s one of a series of walled enclosures around the island for gathering the flocks of sheep for work such as shearing. ‘Punding’ is very much a community effort involving young and old, and most families in the island have a share in the native flocks.

Carry on along the coast to pass round the Point of Bridesness, named after St Bride; there was once a chapel and burial ground here, dedicated to the Irish saint. The headland is often a gathering place for seals, though in 2013 it had a more unusual visitor in the shape of a walrus. A second walrus also came ashore on the island in 2018.

If sea conditions are rough, you may notice waves breaking around a mile to the east of Bridesness. This is the treacherous Reefdyke. The shallow rocks here have claimed many wrecks over the centuries.

Pass around the bay of Brides Ithy (unnamed on OS maps) for around 1km to reach the Point of Burrian. The remains of a broch and settlement can be seen here. The site is partially eroded and much of the stone from the broch is likely to have ended up within the surrounding stretches of sheep dyke.

Another 1km along the coast brings you to the beautiful sweep of South Bay, or Nouster Bay. When you reach the west end of the bay aim to the left of a prominent yellow rectangular sign (a warning to fishing vessels of a subsea cable making landfall). Next to the yellow sign is a farm gate but around 40m further along you’ll find a smaller, more manageable metal walker’s gate.

Pass through this gate, turn right to cross the cattle grid and walk 500 metres up the road till you see a small metal gate on your left leading into a field with a solitary standing stone. This is the Neolithic Stan Stane. Local tradition suggests that a giant woman poked her finger through the stone before planting it in the ground – which is certainly one explanation for the distinctive hole in the upper part of this monolith.

Head back towards the road. If you’re short of time or would like to avoid the more challenging section along the west coast of the island, simply turn left to walk 1km along the public road to return to the airfield. Otherwise, turn right to retrace your steps towards the pier at Nouster. Just before re-crossing the cattle grid a track to your right leads to the North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory, which can provide lunches and evening meals (best to book in advance). There’s also a small shop here, though opening hours are limited (1200-1400 daily, at time of writing).

Around 100m beyond the cattle grid you’ll reach the head of the pier at Nouster. Look for a large metal gate on your right just before you head onto the pier. Pass through this gate and follow the line of the dyke around the top of the shoreline. The next two kilometres do require a little care. It can be very slippy underfoot, there is often a drop to your seaward side and the sheep dyke itself is quite unstable in places (never be tempted to touch or lean on the wall for support).

Around 1km after the pier is the bird hide at Gretchen Loch, which provides fine cover for watching a variety of waders and other birdlife. Carry on north for a further 1km. This side of the island is a popular area for black guillemots, called ‘tysties’ here in Orkney, and you’ll often find a pair of them standing in your way, before reluctantly waddling further down the shoreline.

Shortly after passing the island airstrip, you’ll come to the head of a small geo, or inlet, where a metal gate leads you back through the sheep dyke and into a rough field. Keep shadowing the coast in a northeasterly direction – a little inland to avoid Arctic tern nests in spring and summer - to pass through another metal gate and onto an area of coastal heathland. Bear slightly to your right to head diagonally inland towards an obvious metal farm gate.

Follow the tarmac road eastwards for 300m to reach a crossroads and turn right. After a further 300 yards look for the recently restored New Kirk. This beautiful building is used for various community events and houses heritage information, as well as temporary exhibitions. Tea and coffee-making facilities are also provided.

From the kirk continue along the road for 100m before turning right to arrive back at the airfield.

Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.