Earl's Bu Circular

This short walk takes in one of Orkney’s most significant Norse sites, views across Scapa Flow, and a small area of woodland.

Found in the parish of Orphir, the gentle route won't push you to your limits.

Instead, it will give you the chance to stroll along the shore, taking in the sights and sounds of Scapa Flow, to enjoy this quiet corner of the Orkney mainland.

Distance
3.5km
Grade
Grading: 2
Duration
1.5hrs
Terrain
Close-cropped coastal path on grass, quiet tarmac road and short optional woodland section. Care required around eroding shoreline.
Map Description
OS Explorer 463 (or 462); OS Landranger 6 (or 7)

Begin the walk at the car park for the Orkneyinga Saga Centre.

Closed for major renovations at the time of writing, the centre is a great resource for understanding not just the nearby Norse sites but also Orkney’s place within the Scandinavian sphere of influence for centuries.

Walking from the centre towards the gates of the graveyard, which houses the 12th century Round Kirk, you’ll see on your left the remains of what may have been Earl Haakon Paulsson’s great drinking hall.

It was the Earl himself – the great bogeyman of local history, having betrayed and slain his cousin, the sainted Magnus - who also built the Kirk. It’s believed to have been based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, where Haakon fled to atone for his part in the killing. The building was in use until the 1750s before being partially demolished.

Carry on diagonally across the graveyard to pass through the obvious wooden gate, before following the burnside path for 100m towards the shore. Turn left to cross the small concrete bridge and follow the obvious path along the coast. After 300m the route passes onto the inside of a drystone dyke. Take particular care along this section, as the unstable coastline is rapidly eroding.

The stone used in these dykes is worth noting. The yellow sandstone has the richness of colour typical in this part of Orkney and provides an irresistible frame for creeping willow which can be found along this section.

To your right keep your eyes on the waters of Scapa Flow. There’s always something to see, from the coming and going of workboats, ferries, and dive vessels, to a wide range of seabirds and even the occasional orca.

After a further 500m, after passing through a wooden gate (a little dilapidated at the time of writing) turn left to head inland 100m or so to meet the quiet single-track road. Turn left and follow the road as it heads downhill then up again, to pass through the Gyre Wood.

Around 50m after the low point in the road lookout for a gap in the verge on your left. Go through this to pass into the woods and continue uphill, parallel to the road for an all-too-short 50m before emerging back onto the road, continuing 400m to the T-junction (ignoring the earlier road on the left, which leads through the farmyard).

At the junction turn left to follow the road for 600m back to the car park.

Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.

Further information

  • Places of interest

    Orphir is a relatively peaceful parish with stunning views over Scapa Flow and towards the islands of Flotta and Hoy. One of Orkney's best beaches sits within the parish boundary at Waulkmill. At low tide this is a fantastic stretch of sand with shallow water perfect for paddling.

    At the western edge of the parish you'll find the Hall of Clestrain, the childhood home of Orkney's famous Arctic explorer, John Rae, who discovered the final link in the Northwest Passage. Plans are in place to renovate the Hall but it's currently closed, although the exterior is free to walk around. Orphir is also home to local artist Ingrid Grieve and her Toumal Art Studio. Her work is inspired by the parish's sea views and ever-changing sky. Her studio is open to the public where you can meet Ingrid and browse her collection.

    Orphir hosts the ferry terminal at Houton, the gateway to Flotta and Hoy. View timetables on the Orkney Ferries website.

  • Food & drink

    Orphir isn't home to any shops or food and drink options so remember to take supplies with you before you visit. Kirkwall and Finstown are your closest options.

  • Transport & services

    Orkney's bus service routes 2 and 5 run to Houton from Kirkwall and Stromness respectively. View the full timetables on the Orkney Islands Council website.

    There is no petrol available in the parish, with Kirkwall and Finstown being your closest options.

    There is a public toilet available at Waulkmill, offering one gents', one ladies', and an accessible toilet. There are also toilets at the Houton Ferry Terminal with one unisex toilet and one accessible toilet available during ferry operational hours only.

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