This walk is just part of a longer route encompassing the magnificent west coast of Mainland Orkney.
It takes in some of Orkney's most spectacular coastal scenery, fascinating historical sites, and plenty of wildlife-watching opportunities.
We’ve divided the entire route into three parts, along with the Bay of Skaill to Yesnaby, and Yesnaby to Stromness sections. These can easily be combined, or if you’re feeling very fit you can do the whole lot in a single big day.
Distance
12km
Grade
Grading: 4
Duration
3.5hrs
Terrain
Coastal heath, grassy coastal margins, wet in places with some narrow/eroded sections near edge. Short section on single track road at end (though with optional beach alternative).
Map Description
OS Explorer 463; OS Landranger 6
GPX fileStart at the car park in the village of The Palace in Birsay (if it’s busy you can instead leave a vehicle at the larger car park at the Brough of Birsay, adding 1km to your route).
The remains of the 16th century palace itself are well worth exploring before you begin the walk. From The Palace head south past Palace Stores, which offers a fine selection of homemade pies (perfect sustenance for the miles ahead!). Cross a small stone bridge and immediately after a small public toilet block turn right onto a grassy track towards the sea.
Pass through a wooden gate above the shore and follow the coast across pleasant grassy machair, which comes alive with an abundance of wildflowers in early summer.
After around 800m cross over a fence using a wooden stile. Follow the coast southwest, initially along the outside of a stone dyke. Short grass makes for pleasant going as you gently ascend towards the high crags of Marwick Head, views opening up behind you to the Brough of Birsay and beyond to the Westray Firth and Noup Head in the distance.
As the route begins to level out take a moment to admire the seabird colony of the RSPB Marwick Head Reserve.
Despite the challenges faced by seabirds in the north Atlantic it’s still a hugely impressive site, with guillemots, kittiwakes, cruising gannets, and even the occasional puffin all adding to the cacophony, mingling with the sound of the sea far below.
A little further on are the memorials to Lord Kitchener and the officers and crew of HMS Hampshire, which sank after hitting a German mine in heavy weather, just a short distance off the shore here in 1916, with the loss of over 700 lives.
From the memorial continue south along the coast for around 1km to arrive at Marwick Bay.
Where the coastal path meets the end of a singletrack road turn left then sharply right to pick up a narrow path which follows the line of a rather elegant drystone dyke. This holds back the immense weight of beach stones as it follows the gentle curve of the bay before arriving at a small car park.
Carry on south along the coast for 800m to reach the Fishermen’s Huts at Sand Geo. Built around the turn of the 19th/20th century these beautiful stone buildings with their turf roofs blend into the head of the geo. There’s a picnic bench here and at around halfway through the route it’s a good spot to take a break.
Continue south for 1km, passing through a wooden gate to round the headland at Outshoore Point. 800m further on is the Stack o Roo. The anvil-shaped sea stack stands on a ledge of sloping rock and is often home to nesting puffins, which can also be spotted along the coast here.
A little further on the ground changes from swardy grass to short coastal heath. Keep heading south, crossing a number of wooden stiles. When you arrive at a small stone shed, built into a drystone dyke look for an obvious stile built into the wall to the right of the building. Cross over this before following the line of the dyke towards the shore. Go through a wooden gate before turning left to continue down the coast, passing through a gap in a broken-down dyke.
1km further on the coast bends to the left to sweep in towards the Bay of Skaill. Just after passing a deep geo look for the faint remains of an Iron Age broch, crumbling over the cliff on its seaward side. Continue following the coast to meet a stone stile at the north end of the bay (do watch for a short section of eroded path just before you arrive at the bay, which requires a careful step or two. It’s a short drop below, but enough to cause an injury).
After crossing the stile turn right and head 500m along the public road (or walk along the beach) to reach the toilet block and car park and the end of this section of the walk.
You’ll have hopefully left a car or a bike here to take you back to the start of the walk, where tea and cake at the Birsay Bay Tearoom will have been well-earned.
For those looking to continue their route south, view our Bay of Skaill to Yesnaby walk.
Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
- Places of interest
Birsay is a parish full of interesting places to visit. In the village of Palace you'll find the St Magnus Church just across from the car park where the walks begins. This modest building is thought to be located on the site of an earlier place of worship where the remains of Orkney's patron saint, Magnus, were initially brought following his martyrdom, around 1117. The east gable of the building holds a fine three-panelled stained-glass window depicting his story. A more recent stained-glass work created by artist Shona McInnes is also on display and contains references to many of the sights you'll see on the walk.
Nearby is the Barony Mill, featuring the only working water wheel in Orkney. The mill produces bere, an ancient form of Orcadian barley, and tours are available. Other attractions include HMS Tern, a former wartime airfield, and the fascinating Kirbuster Museum, showcasing life on an Orkney farm in years gone by.
- Food & drink
The popular Birsay Bay Tearoom can be found on the outskirts of Palace, offering meals, teas, coffees and fabulous homebakes. Check ahead for openings times, which change according to the season.
In the village you'll find JP Orkney's honesty box, full of homemade cakes, treats, condiments, and much more. The nearby Palace Stores is a well-stocked shop offering plenty of food and drink options too.
- Transport & services
Given this is a linear walking route it would be a good idea to leave a vehicle or bike at the Bay of Skaill to take you back to your start point in Palace, unless you want to retrace your steps on the coast north once again, or carry on south towards Yesnaby and Stromness.
Orkney's number six bus service runs between Kirkwall and Birsay daily. View the full timetable on the Orkney Islands Council website.
Petrol is available at the Co-op supermarket in Dounby a little over six miles away.
There is a public toilet in the village offering one gents' and one ladies' toilet.