This walk is the second, and shortest, section of a longer route taking in the magnificent west coast of Mainland Orkney.
This leg features spectacular geology, a range of flora and fauna, and one of Orkney’s most dramatically located Iron Age brochs.
For a longer walk, it can be combined with the third section, Yesnaby to Stromness. Experienced walkers looking for a big challenge may even wish to combine all three routes, including Birsay to the Bay of Skaill, for a full day's adventure.
Distance
5.5km
Grade
Grading: 3
Duration
2hrs
Terrain
Sandy beach, short bouldery section, coastal heathland, wet underfoot in places.
Map Description
OS Explorer 463; OS Landranger 6
GPX fileStart at the public toilets at the Bay of Skaill. Turn left to head south down the coast (with the sea on your right hand side). During low tide you can walk on the sand. At higher tides you may want to walk along the grassy ‘banks’ above the beach boulders.
After 800m you’ll pass below the Neolithic village of Skara Brae. It can be tricky to get past here at extreme high tides or during stormy weather, so do check the conditions before setting out. It’s also worth noting that there is no access to Skara Brae from the seaward side, though it is well-worth visiting, via the Visitor Centre, before you start the walk.
Carry on to the end of the bay, crossing a short bouldery section towards a small stone building with walled enclosure (look out for some old fencing wire among the boulders, which can trip the unwary).
Follow the fence line around 300m towards the headland. In spring and early summer, it’s best to move swiftly through this section to avoid causing unnecessary disturbance to the Arctic terns which nest on the gravelly shore to your right.
The fence ends at a rocky ledge. Turn right to pass below this for a few metres, before doubling back to follow an obvious metal handrail embedded in the rock which carries you up towards the headland at the Hole o’ Rowe. This natural arch is a spectacular sight in stormy weather, when giant waves drive through it with explosive force. Even on the calmest days this is a place to watch your step. The storm-blasted rock is brittle, with various unexpected drops to the sea below.
Follow the coast southwest for 300m to reach Yettna Geo. The north side of the geo is a popular nesting spot for guillemots. From here, head southeast towards the obvious stone cairn which marks the high point of Rowe Head. The view ahead really begins to open up, with the receding headlands of Yesnaby and the Black Craig, and the Old Man of Hoy in the distance, looking tiny below the enormous cliffs of St John’s Head.
While you can follow the clifftops, we’d suggest heading inland a little where a faint track keeps to the slightly higher ground around 200m in from the coast. Head roughly southeast for 1km to pass around the head of the enormous Ramna Geo.
Continue to follow the coast south. Shortly after passing the magnificently named Stinkna Geo, cross over a wooden stile and follow a fence line for 300m to reach the Broch of Borwick. This Iron Age broch sits precariously on the cliff edge; its seaward side already partially collapsed over the edge. It’s the most dramatic of locations, enclosed by rugged headlands. Do take care when exploring the site, as the cliff edge is extremely brittle.
The location of the broch is likely to be linked to the nearby inlet, Noust of Borwick (‘Noust’ being a place for pulling up a boat). A rare refuge in this impenetrable stretch of coast. Pass around the head of the noust before rising again on the other side of the burn. Follow the faint route westwards to reach the high point on the headland of Cauldrus, marked by a small stone cairn.
From here head south, crossing a wooden stile to reach the brick-built WW2 buildings at the Yesnaby car park.
If you're planning to carry on south, follow our Yesnaby to Stromness route.
Visit the Scottish Outdoor Access Code website for more information and advice on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
- Places of interest
This walking route passes the Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae, part of Orkney's UNESCO World Heritage Site. A few miles away you can enjoy guided walks at both the Standing Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar too.
Tours and tastings are available at the Orkney Brewery in Quoyloo, a couple of miles north of the Bay of Skaill.
Just over five miles away is the village of Dounby where you can visit Castaway Crafts and its fabulous textiles, with products handmade in Orkney.
- Food & drink
The cafe at the Skara Brae Visitor Centre offers a range of soups, sandwiches, light bites, and hot drinks, as does the Orkney Brewery's Tasting Hall. Both are only open between April and October.
Close to the Bay of Skaill you'll find the Orkney Dairy's Big Bun Box where you can pick up milkshakes, homebakes, and plenty of other goodies.
Just over five miles away in Dounby you'll find West Bites with its extensive menu of takeaway filled rolls and much more. There's also a small Asda in the village too.
- Transport & services
Given this is a linear walking route it would be a good idea to leave a vehicle or bike at Yesnaby to take you back to your start point at the Bay of Skaill, unless you want to retrace your steps on the coast north once again, or carry on south towards Stromness.
Orkney's 8S bus service runs to the Skara Brae Visitor Centre from Kirkwall and Stromness on Monday - Saturday during the summer, and on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays during the winter. The X1 bus runs from Kirkwall to Skara Brae daily during the summer months only. View the full timetables on the Orkney Islands Council website.
Petrol is available at the Asda supermarket in Dounby a little over five miles away.
There is a public toilet at the Bay of Skaill offering one gents’ toilet, one ladies’ toilet and an accessible toilet (Radar key needed). There are also toilets in Dounby, offering one gents' and one ladies' toilet.