Welcome to Orkney’s landscapes and seascapes, stunning views transformed by every change in weather and season.
There are other contrasts too. The spectacular cliffs of the West Mainland face the Atlantic Ocean, while the gentler landscape of the East Mainland faces the North Sea. Throughout, the blues and greys of sea and sky are complemented by the heather browns and greens of Orkney’s heaths and fertile farmlands. It's a dramatic palette for artists, photographers, and lovers of the outdoors.
You could cover this trail in one day, with just 43 miles of driving between locations, leaving plenty of time for peaceful exploration on foot. Remember, there are also plenty of spectacular spots to discover in our island communities too, and don’t forget your binoculars, camera and - just in case - waterproofs!
Your trail
- 1. Yesnaby
The dramatic old red sandstone sea-cliffs of Yesnaby on the west coast of the Orkney Mainland stand tall, proudly defying the seas and winds of the Atlantic. The rocks are about 400 million years old, and erosion sculpts them into attractive shapes such as the iconic Yesnaby Castle, a distinctive and photogenic two-legged sea stack sometimes described as a smaller version of its more famous cousin, the Old Man of Hoy.
Whether in the teeth of an Atlantic gale or the stillness of a calm day, you’ll find Yesnaby invigorating. There are clifftop walks to both north and south, but be careful near the cliff edge and on any slippery footpaths. Keep your eyes peeled for birds on the wing or roosting on the cliffs, and for seals in the sea far below you. Orkney’s grey seal population breeds between October and November and common seals breed in the summer, but these inquisitive sea-mammals can often be spotted year-round.
- 2. Birsay
Located on the north-west of the Mainland, the historic village of Palace had such a favourable location that it was once the centre of the Viking Earldom. Easy access to the sea and with an exceptionally fertile hinterland, it's no wonder that earls and bishops chose this place. Look for seals and seabirds, and hunt the beach next to the Brough of Birsay for rare cowrie shells, known locally as groatie buckies, said to bring luck to their finders.
At low tide you can cross to the Brough and wander amongst the remains of Viking houses, barns, a church and monastery and even a sauna. Follow the path up to the lighthouse for a bracing walk rewarded with an expansive view. Crossing is only possible two hours either side of low tide so remember to check the tide times before visiting the Brough - phone the Skara Brae Visitor Centre on 01856 841 815 for more information.
You can also follow our Birsay Circular walking route for a gentle coastal trail in this beautiful corner of Orkney.
Futher south you'll find the incredible cliffs at Marwick Head and the memorials to Lord Kitchener and the crew of HMS Hampshire, lost here during the First World War.
- 3. Dingieshowe
Depending on the wind direction, the pleasant sandy beach at Dingieshowe can be very sheltered, a perfect place for leisurely beachcombing and rock pool exploration. Just along from the small car park there is a mound containing the remains of an Iron Age coastal broch or fort. It is said that the mound was an important assembly place in the Viking period. Please help us keep our beaches clean by collecting any plastic waste and putting it in the bins in the car park.
- 4. Mull Head
The Mull Head Nature Reserve in Deerness comprises over 200 acres of coastal grassland, heath and sea cliff, with a cosy visitor centre to help you get your bearings and show you the wildlife, geology and prehistory to look out for. A short walk from the car park will bring you to the partially collapsed sea cave known as the Gloup, a spectacular sight when the sea crashes through the cave entrance. There is a fenced viewing platform but be careful here and as you follow the signposted pathway along the cliff.
Carry on along the coast and you'll find the Brough of Deerness, a rocky outcrop almost completely detached from the mainland. There is incredible geology here, with rock cut steps leading you through it all and up to the Brough, where you'll find the remains of an 11th century Norse chapel.
If you want a longer walk, our Mull Head & Covenanters Memorial route is well worth a wander.
Other places to visit if you have more time
There is lots to see and do in every corner of Orkney whatever the season; the quieter months are a great time to sightsee at a slower pace. If you have time to explore further, see the suggested sites below:
- Wideford Hill near Kirkwall provides a panoramic view of Orkney’s landscape and scatter of islands, with an impressive chambered tomb on the steep hillside overlooking the Bay of Firth.
- The RSPB manages 13 nature reserves in Orkney. From the shelter of the Eddie Balfour hen harrier hide at RSPB Cottascarth and Rendall Moss, you are able to watch some of our moorland bird species including the iconic hen harrier.
- At the Earl's Bu in Orphir, beside the sheltered waters of Scapa Flow, there is a delightful circular walk enabling you to enjoy views of the Flow where nature, history, and modern industry sit easily together.
- The Orkney Museum in Kirkwall and the Stromness Museum both have excellent displays about Orkney’s natural history, the perfect way to prepare for a day’s exploration out of doors.
- The coastline at Roseness in the east end of the parish of Holm in Orkney's East Mainland is seldom visited, but there are spectacular cliffs, gloups, and geos here, as well as a curious waymarker and lighthouse to explore too.
