It feels a little difficult to be poetic about autumn when September has been so unkind. To call it precipitation gives the rain a daintiness it doesn’t deserve. In short, it has been very wet.
In a place like Orkney where the signs of autumn aren’t as obvious as other parts of the UK, we need to look a little harder. Fortunately, there has been the odd day in-between the showers where it’s been enjoyable to be outside. The signs have been there to see or hear, confirming that autumn really is here.
Here are my top four signs of the changing season.
Pink-footed geese
Is there a more evocative sound than that of pink-footed geese calling during the night as they make their way on their southward migration? It turns out hearing them in the day is pretty special too.
Recently I had been walking the coast near Marwick Head in Birsay when I heard the distinctive high pitched ‘wink-wink’ call of pink-footed geese. I couldn’t yet see the birds but as I waited a skein appeared high up from the Atlantic Ocean. The entire Icelandic and eastern Greenlandic population of these birds spends the winter in the UK and it was fascinating to think where these birds had come from and what they had seen on the way.
These birds weren’t stopping despite Orkney likely being the first land they had seen since departing Iceland. It’s much more common to see large flocks of these small geese linger in Orkney during the spring on their northward’s migration. Between now and then they will spend their time primarily in the east coast of Scotland and England.
I had a memorable pink-footed geese encounter when filming for Highlands: Scotland’s Wild Heart. The sand dunes behind the Loch of Strathbeg RSPB reserve are one of the first roosting areas for arriving pink-feet and I had been sent on assignment to film them. I set up my hide on the edge of the dunes and slept in it overnight with BBC Radio 4 for company. I could hear the birds arrive during the night and, when the sun rose, I could see a sea of pink-footed geese spread out in front of me. Condensation had formed in the lens during the night and I prayed that the misty patch on the front element would keep shrinking before the geese stirred and took off. Take off they did, in their tens of thousands, and in beautiful light too.
Grassland waxcap fungi
There are around 50 species of waxcaps recorded in the UK and fortunately for us a good number are to be found in Orkney. The beautiful part of fungi that appears above ground are the fruiting bodies of the fungus but the main part, the mycelium, is to be found underground. Perhaps this year will be especially good as a wet autumn provides favourable conditions for the production of fruiting bodies.
The majority of them prefer unimproved or semi-improved grassland conditions where none of the common agricultural practices have been implemented, i.e. ploughing, reseeding, or treatment with pesticides or fertilisers. So where might we find these perfect conditions? In cemeteries!
As well as waxcaps you can often find other species such as spindles, corals, and pink gills. Many of the waxcaps appear slimy though, as the name suggests, they often look waxy. One of my favourites is the parrot waxcap; when young it is a deep vibrant green colour but often changes to yellow as it ages. Recently I have also found blackening waxcap, golden, pink, and scarlet waxcap.
If fungi are your thing and you’re looking to develop your interest then I heartily recommend 'Fungi, a field guide' second edition by Elsa Wood and Jon Dunkelman.
Grey seals
I’ve noticed an increase in the number of grey seals appearing close to shore having seen few throughout the summer.
Most are ‘bottling’, which means they are sleeping or resting whilst upright in the water with just their heads above the waterline. In the coming weeks these grey seal mothers will haul out at their preferred pupping sites. These are known as ‘rookeries’ and it’s here they will give birth to a single pup clad in white fur known as ‘lunago’. On a recent visit to Stronsay I could already hear them singing on the uninhabited islands offshore.
Some early pups are born in September but the vast majority won’t arrive until late October into November. They will suckle on fat, rich milk which allows them to be weaned in just over three weeks, giving them the best possible start before venturing out to sea to fend for themselves.
Aspen leaves
The aspen is native to Orkney but not a common sight. In fact, a small number of these beautiful trees clinging to the exposed hillside at Waulkmill is the only place you’ll find it growing in the Orkney mainland. It is however unmistakable at this time of year.
It is also known as quaking aspen and you’ll see why, especially in a breeze. The large, round leaves shimmer and shake in the wind. The leaf stalks are flexible and flattened near the leaf which is why the leaves flutter so easily.
The other great place to see aspen requires a lot more legwork. The wonderful wood at Berriedale, deep in the Hoy hills, has several tall aspen though the last time I was there several had come down, no doubt in strong winds.
In autumn their leaves turn a striking deep yellow colour, a beautiful contrast to the silver-grey bark on the trunk. Aspens are dioecious, meaning that female and male flowers grow on different trees, but the aspen can also propagate clone shoots produced by the tree’s root system.
Raymond is a wildlife filmmaker who also offers bespoke Orkney wildlife tours and one-to-one wildlife photography tuition. Find out more via his official website. You can also find him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.