Our latest 'Introducing Orkney's Makers' feature focuses on the Island Smokery, the Stromness-based business producing a delicious range of smoked cheese, garlic, and butter. We spoke with the Smokery's Fiona MacInnes.
Where did the idea for the business come from?
The Island Smokery actually started by accident. It was founded in 2005 by my husband Callum, who ran the Original Orkney Hamper Company at the time. Smoked ‘pound rounds’ of cheese from Orkney Cheese were a popular addition to hampers but when they relocated to their new premises at Hatston they stopped producing smoked cheese, so Callum asked for the rights to do it instead. It wasn’t quite as simple as it sounds though – there were many failed attempts at smoking, resulting in a lot of sad piles of melted cheese! Eventually it turned to success and Orkney smoked cheese was available again. The sheer popularity of it meant a purpose-built factory was needed, and the Island Smokery was born.
Orkney Cheese is famous brand in its own right, was it a bit daunting to take the cheese and add flavours to it, taking folk out of their comfort zone when it comes to local cheese?
No, we found that folk simply love cheese and increasing the range has been an easy sell. We started simply with our original smoked white mature cheddar, then added the ‘smoky red’. Our first three added flavours were red onion, sweet chilli, and garlic. We now have a range of eight flavours and we are keen to get new ones on the go. Watch this space!
How has the business grown over the years?
We’ve steadily grown in recent years, alongside changes in customer trends. People are moving more to deli shops to buy local produce rather than through supermarkets. Whilst some of our range is in the supermarket, our biggest trade comes from wholesalers who supply smaller shops and hotels. We’ve always had a strong support locally too, and visitors to the islands find our cheese the perfect shape and size to take home as a taste of Orkney. We also moved to a new base in Stromness in 2017 which helped us expand production and meet demand.
You’ve always been very supportive of the Orkney ‘brand’, what kind of role has that played in the growth of the Island Smokery?
It has been hugely important for us. Orkney is known for its rich and diverse food produce and working with Orkney Food & Drink, through the support from Highlands & Islands Enterprise and Orkney Islands Council, has allowed us and other companies to showcase the products at events such as the Royal Highland Show and Good Food shows. That helps to open doors but the long-term success is down to the quality of the product. That’s what drives customers to come back for more.
You work closely with other local producers to create your range, where did the idea for collaborations come from and why was it important for you to do that?
It makes perfect sense to work with island companies like the Orkney Brewery, Highland Park, and the Orkney Distillery, and to use locally sourced ingredients where we can. Being part of Orkney Food & Drink is like being part of a family and it’s second nature to work with like-minded folk. Our Dark Island cheddar is a personal favourite – the combination of beer and smokiness works a treat. That local connection extends into the actual process of smoking the cheese too – we use ash wood supplied by Orkney bodhran maker, Ian Leonard, and local carpenter, Leo Kerr.
What does the future have in store for the Island Smokery?
It’s been a period of change for us as Callum has now retired from the business and it’s in the hands of the next generation to take it to new levels. My son Daryl and I now run the Island Smokery and we are both excited about the future. Unfortunately, recent supply issues at Orkney Cheese mean we have had to buy an alternative Scottish cheddar and that’s been disappointing. However, there is lots to do to extend our range of products and it’s a really busy time for us, which is just how we like it.
Find out more about the Island Smokery and visit the official website to buy cheese. You can also pick up Island Smokery cheese at local shops across Orkney.