Our latest 'Introducing Orkney's Makers' feature focuses on the Barony Mill, home of beremeal and a talented team committed to protecting this stunning part of Orkney's heritage. The Mill's Katie Woolfrey shared its story with us.
The Barony Mill is a very special place, how did it start and get to where it is today?
Barony Mill has been at the heart of Birsay for centuries. The current building dates back to 1873, but there’s been a mill on this site since at least the 12th century. It was built to serve the surrounding farming community, grinding their crops into meal using the power of water from the Boardhouse Loch. What makes it truly special is that it’s still doing exactly that today – the same building, the same waterpower, and the same ancient grain, bere barley, which has been grown in Orkney since Neolithic times.
It’s the last working mill in Orkney, does the team feel a responsibility to keep this ancient practice alive, and does it make what you all do that little bit more special?
Definitely. It’s also the only mill in the world to grind bere. Everyone involved feels a real sense of pride and responsibility in keeping the mill running. It’s not just about producing beremeal; it’s about keeping a living link to Orkney’s heritage alive. When you see the waterwheel start to turn and hear the stones begin to grind, you’re seeing something that’s been part of Orcadian life for generations. That continuity gives what we do a special kind of meaning. And truth be told, if there was no Barony Mill, there’d be no beremeal - it’s a responsibility we take very seriously, and we hope folk across Orkney keep on supporting the mill so it can stay alive.
How important is the heritage aspect to the mill?
Heritage is at the very heart of everything we do. Of course, there are much faster, cleaner, less dusty ways to make flour – but we’re not trying to compete with those. What we’re preserving is a craft and a tradition. The sound of the wheel, the smell of the bere drying in the kiln, the texture and flavour of the meal – all of it connects you to the past in a very tangible way. That’s exactly what makes Barony Mill and beremeal itself so unique, and what folk come here to experience.
There’s a real team behind it all at the mill. How many folk do you have behind the scenes and what’s it like to work at and in such a unique place?
We’re a small but dedicated team, with a mix of staff and Birsay Heritage Trust trustees who keep things running both in the mill and behind the scenes. Our miller, Ali, and his apprentice, Kenny, look after the milling, keeping everything from the waterwheel to the grinding stones turning smoothly. In the summer months we have guides who lead tours, sharing the story of bere and the magic of the mill with visitors from all over the world. There’s a few of us sorting the sales, marketing, and admin, and we’re all used to a layer of flour dust!
Working here is like stepping between worlds. One minute you’re answering emails, the next you’re shovelling bere on the floor in a smoke-filled kiln, or repairing an old wooden fanner. There’s a rhythm to the place: the rumble of the stones, the soft clanging of the gears, the waterwheel like a steady heartbeat, powering it all. For the millers, it’s hard work, often chilly and very dusty, but there’s something incredibly grounding about it. You feel connected to generations of millers before you and to the land itself. Everyone who works here shares that sense of pride and belonging – we know we’re caretakers of something rare and worth preserving.
You’ve been able to diversify your range over the years, what kind of things do you make at the mill these days?
Beremeal is still at the heart of what we do, and it’s incredibly versatile. Traditionally of course it’s been used for bere bannocks, but these days you’ll find it in everything from brownies and shortbread to sourdough crackers and more. We also make flake beremeal, which is great in your porridge, and bere berries (the whole bere grain) which are delicious in soups and stews, or even risotto. More and more chefs and bakers are discovering bere and creating new ways to use it, and we’re delighted that a couple of Michelin restaurants now have our bere on their menus too!
It’s also become a real visitor hot-spot too – what kind of response do you get from folk when they step inside for a tour?
Most visitors are amazed when they see the wheel start turning and realise it’s all powered purely by water, no electricity needed. There’s this wonderful sense of stepping back in time. Visitors often tell us how atmospheric it feels – the smell of the grain, the rumble of the machinery, the water spray from the wheel. It’s an experience you can’t really get anywhere else, and people love knowing that what they’re seeing isn’t just a demonstration but real, working heritage.
What does the future look like for the mill?
We’re working hard to make sure Barony Mill’s wheel stays turning for generations to come. That means keeping the traditional milling alive, but also shining a brighter light on beremeal and its place at the heart of Orkney’s food culture. It’s sat quietly in the shadows for many years, but now it’s time for bere to take its rightful place as the defining taste of Orkney. Nutty, earthy, and uniquely Orcadian, bere is naturally nutritious, and deeply rooted in our land. Our aim is to keep the mill both a working site and a living part of Orkney’s heritage, and to see bere once again stand as a symbol of the islands’ creativity, resilience, and good food.
We’re working closely with local producers, chefs, and bakers, and finding new ways for folk to connect with the story behind the grain. Just as importantly, we’re looking to strengthen our ties within the community – we’d love folk to get involved, share ideas, and take pride in the mill as something that belongs to all of Orkney.
To keep the wheel turning, we need continued community and visitor support – whether that’s buying beremeal, visiting the mill, lending a hand, or simply spreading the word. Every bag bought and every tour taken helps preserve a living tradition that’s been part of Orkney for centuries.
Find out more about the Barony Mill and visit the official website to buy. You can pick up the Barony Mill's biscuits at shops across Orkney, and visitors can see the mill in action from May to September.