It’s possible to see seals almost anywhere around the Orkney coastline, and it’s more than possible that one will watch you warily from the sea as you walk along a beach, its curiosity having got the better of it.
However, these particular locations give you a good chance of seeing them in a variety of habitats. Remember though, don’t get too close to them if they are hauled out of the water, especially at pupping time, which for harbour seals is July, and for grey seals is October through to December.
Most people visit the towering cliffs at Noup Head to see the wonderful seabird colony, which is also an RSPB reserve. In the last decade this has become a stronghold for the gannet in Orkney, but before you walk south to admire them, have a look behind the lighthouse and down to the large skerry below.
More likely than not there will be a group of grey seals on the large flat rock - sometimes up to 50 can be hauled out here if the surge isn’t too heavy. It’s very special seeing them in this environment, on the edge of the Atlantic in wild water where they are supposed to be.
There’s a bonus site in Westray too, check out Pierowall village where harbour seals regularly haul out on the shore.
The grey seal pupping season is slightly tricky from a wildlife-watching point of view. Orkney is home to many tens of thousands of grey seals at this time but most prefer the seclusion of uninhabited and remote islands to give birth.
The small geos on the southern tip of South Ronaldsay however offer great places to watch the drama unfold. What this site lacks in terms of seal numbers is more than made up for by the drama of the scene.
During autumnal gales this is a wild corner of Orkney, the strong tides of the Pentland Firth fighting with the wind creating some big waves in the process. This walking route points you in the right direction.
This is probably one of the easiest places to see harbour seals in Orkney.
Around 10 to 15 of these beautiful creatures like to rest on the exposed rocks at low tide off to the right-hand side of the pier. You will often see them here doing their ‘banana’ pose, where they stretch and curve to try and get into as comfortable a position as possible before resting for hours on end.
Having found their spot, they seem loathe to move as the tide comes in, with only their head and tail poking above the water until they succumb to the rising water and slip off into the sea.
Not far from Burwick but this time on the east coast of South Ronaldsay, Windwick plays host to around 100 grey seals with easy viewing points available atop the high cliffs.
Hauled out on the kelp-strewn shore below, this North Sea-facing shore has all the elements associated with the pupping season. Large bull grey seals fight for supremacy and access to mates, mother seals squabble as their pups try to suckle, and all this against the backdrop of screaming herring gulls picking morsels from the surf.
They are best viewed from the clifftop, don’t be tempted to descend the cliffs to get a closer view, this is as much for the safety of the seals as yours.
The benign shallow waters of the Stenness Loch couldn’t be any more different from the elemental scenes at Windwick and Burwick.
Usually, directly opposite the Standing Stones of Stenness, a handful of harbour seals loaf on their favourite rocks and are easily viewable from the small car park. However, the Stenness Loch is connected to the sea at the Brig o’Waithe and so the same fate will eventually reach these seals as those at St Mary’s -that of a rising tide.
This is often a wonderful serene scene. Mute swans and their cygnets drift past as the seals sleep, periodically raising their heads to check everything is ok before closing their eyes again.
Five places to spot seals in Orkney
1. Noup Head, Westray; 2. Pierowall village, Westray; 3. Burwick, South Ronaldsay; 4. St Mary's village, East Mainland; 5. Windwick, South Ronaldsay; 6. Stenness Loch, West Mainland.
Here are our top tips for watching seals and their pups safely in Orkney. Thanks to Wild Orkney Walks for the advice.
- When approaching seal pup beaches, always do so quietly as loud noises can cause the adults to become alarmed.
- Try to avoid pointing with your hands as this can also cause the adults to become agitated.
- If you notice the adults looking alarmed - if they are watching you or starting to move down the beach - please move away from that beach quickly and leave them in peace.
- Always try to be as low as possible when viewing a pupping beach from above, so consider sitting down on the grass or even lying on your belly which is also safer if the ground is wet, or it’s windy.
- Keep your distance and don’t attempt to get down onto the beaches, it is better and safer to watch from above.
- Keep your dog on a lead (if you need to take it with you) but better still leave your dog at home
- Always observe the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
Megan from Wild Orkney Walks offers guided Seal Pup Walks. Find out more via her official website.