With its huge hills, towering cliffs, and wild and rugged landscape, Hoy is unlike anywhere else in Orkney.
Named ‘high island’ by the Vikings, Hoy certainly lives up to the title. For many visitors, it’s the first part of Orkney they’ll see as they cross the Pentland Firth by ferry. It’s a sight they won’t forget, as Hoy’s looming contours dominate the local skyline.
It hosts some of the most iconic scenery in the islands, including the famous Old Man of Hoy and the soaring cliffs at St John’s Head. Hoy also played an important role in both World Wars, with reminders of Orkney’s military heritage scattered across the island. Hoy’s dramatic interior, uninhabited and given over to hills, heather and moorland, is home to some incredible wildlife too, such as white-tailed eagles, mountain hares, and even dragonflies.
Then, in complete contrast, South Walls, linked to Hoy by a manmade causeway, and the neighbouring island of Graemsay, are pastoral communities, gentle in comparison to the vast wilderness next door. Don't be fooled though, despite the difference in appearance, they come with an appeal all of their own.
Hoy and South Walls are home to a few eating out options which are perfect if you’re planning on a longer stay here, or if you’re looking for refreshment after tackling a hill or clifftop walk.
The Beneth’ill Café is found just a short walk from Moaness Pier at the north end of Hoy. Open during the summer months only, it’s perfectly positioned for light bites, burgers, home bakes, and hot and cold drinks after a day spent exploring the island. Find the latest opening times by phoning 01856 791 119, emailing admin@benethillcafe.co.uk, by visiting the official website or you can find the café on Facebook.
Just north of Hoy’s main ferry port at Lyness, Emily’s offers a range of tasty lunches and evening meals throughout the year in an idyllic setting. There are often specials available too, with local ingredients to the fore. Check opening times and book a table in advance by phoning 01856 791 213 or email Emily via emily_vsmith@yahoo.co.uk. You can also view menus on the official website and find Emily’s on Facebook for the latest opening information.
The excellent Scapa Flow Museum at Lyness is also home to the popular Skalpaflòi Café with a menu full of lunch options, snacks, home bakes and refreshments. It’s open at the same time as the museum itself – phone 01856 791 300 or visit the official website to check in advance.
The YM Longhope runs a community café on Tuesdays and Saturdays with a range of lunch options available, and a Lunch Club on Fridays with a two-course meal on offer at very reasonable prices. It’s also a great opportunity to meet local folk for a chat about the island. Find the latest opening times and menu information on Facebook. You can also phone 01856 701 329 or email info.theym@gmail.com for more details. Booking ahead is essential.
The bar at the Royal Hotel in Longhope is usually open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings but do check in advance by phoning 01856 701 276. The Anchor Bar at the Hoy Hotel at Lyness is usually open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings too, and on Sunday lunchtimes, but again the best advice is to check before visiting. Phone 01856 791 377, 01856 701 273, or find the bar on Facebook.
The only shop in Hoy and South Walls is found in the later. J. M. F Groat & Sons in the village of Longhope lives up to Orkney's 'well-stocked island shop' reputation with shelves full of fresh food, groceries, and beers, wines and spirits. It also offers hardware and ironmongery, along with solid fuel. The shop is open all week, although only occasionally on Sundays. Phone 01856 701 273 or find the shop on Facebook to check opening times in advance.
Remember, Hoy is such a large island that a round trip from Rackwick to the shop will involve a 40-mile drive.
Petrol is available at J. M. F Groat & Sons in Longhope with the pumps open at the same time as the shop. Phone 01856 701 273 or find the shop on Facebook to check opening times in advance.
There are public toilets available at:
It's easy to overlook the tiny island of Graemsay, found in-between the Orkney mainland and the north end of Hoy. The passenger ferry from Stromness stops off here on its way to Moaness in Hoy, with Graemsay offering peace, tranquility and natural highlights. The rugged coastal path is a challenging but rewarding route, providing beautiful views towards Hoy and the Orkney mainland. An easier walk follows the island’s main road and gives walkers the chance to see wildflowers and plenty of birdlife, including hen-harriers, curlews, snipe and much more. Sandside beach is a stunning sweep of sand with views towards Stromness too. Graemsay is also famous for its two lighthouses, Hoy Low and Hoy High, but both are privately owned and not open to visitors. If you’re planning to visit Graemsay, make sure you take enough food and drink to last the day.
Hoy is one of Orkney’s most popular islands, especially during the summer months, so planning your visit in advance is essential.
There are two different ferry routes keeping Hoy connected with the Orkney mainland. The main service is the car and passenger ferry that links the mainland port of Houton, Lyness in Hoy, and neighbouring Flotta.
There is also a passenger-only route that runs between Stromness, Graemsay, and Moaness in Hoy. This is the only service available for anyone planning to visit Graemsay.
Orkney Ferries operates sailings to Lyness in Hoy on a daily basis, running a triangular route that links the island with Flotta and Houton on the Orkney mainland. It’s a beautiful, usually sheltered crossing, with plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunities as the vessel crosses its corner of Scapa Flow. Not every sailing heads directly to Lyness, or to Houton on the return leg, so do check the timetable in advance. There are regular bus services, route two from Kirkwall and route five from Stromness, which meet ferry departures and arrivals at Houton.
The passenger-only ferry runs daily between Stromness, Graemsay, and Moaness at the north end of Hoy, with spectacular views as it leaves its home port and heads out into Hoy Sound. This service is perfect if you’re planning a day of walking through the Rackwick Valley, to the Old Man of Hoy, or up into the Hoy hills. The regular X1 bus service links Stromness with Kirkwall and St Margaret’s Hope.
Bicycles are accepted on-board both vessels. Book your ferry tickets online via the Orkney Ferries website, and contact the ferry company directly for more information on all its services.
Hoy is Orkney’s second largest island and travel here can take a lot longer than anticipated. For example, a drive from the ferry terminal at Lyness to Rackwick will take the best part of half an hour, and if you’re heading south, Longhope is around 15 minutes away by car. Because of these distances, walking in Hoy isn’t really possible unless you’re taking the passenger ferry from Stromness to Moaness to tackle routes at the northern end of the island, or you bring a car to drop off at a suitable point on a circular walking trail.
Cycling in Hoy can be great fun, but be warned, the road north from Lyness is incredibly hilly so expect some steep climbs. Any casual cyclist planning to see the island on two wheels should be relatively fit and prepared for challenging stretches of road.
There is a community bus service linking Lyness and Longhope on weekdays, with a Sunday connection reaching Moaness. Seasonal services are often available too. Find the latest timetables online, or phone 01856 701 356, 07833 777 760, or email office.iohdt@gmail.com for more information.
A private bus service run by local resident, Albert Clark, meets the ferry at Moaness and drives visitors to Rackwick. Booking in advance is essential via 01856 791 315.
Our Hoy and South Walls walking and cycling routes are excellent introductions to the area.
Graemsay is very much an island for walking or cycling, with quiet roads and plenty of places to stop to soak up the scenery.
There are no car hire options available in Hoy or Graemsay.
There are no guided tours available in Hoy, but many local tour operators would be able to plan day visits to the island.
Given the sheer scale of Hoy and South Walls, you’d struggle to fit everything in during a weekend, let alone a day.
Our advice is to take your time and soak up the sights and scenery of this special landscape. Browse our listings below.
Find your perfect home from home in Hoy & Graemsay.